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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.